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pierreo March 9th, 2010

9 March

Just want to keep you informed of my trip through Laos while I am still there.

I just arrived in Luang Prabang after spending two days on a slow boat down the Mehkong river.  We came through Thailand and crossed the Mehkong River into Laos near Chang Rai.

Very relaxing two days with not much to do other than look at the scenery and watch the river banks flow by.  The Mehkong is very low right now so in a lot of places, the boat has to be careful not too hit rocks right under the water level, but we managed safely.

We made a stop in a small village which was very interesting; we aso stopped at caves full of Buddah images.  Tomorrow we visit Luang Prabang, which used to be the old capital of Laos.. Should be very interesting.

I will let you know how things develop the next time I find access to internet…

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pierreo February 20th, 2010

I could go to Mardi Gras in New Orleans.  I have been to New Orleans many times since 1975, but never for Mardi Gras.  I could go to “Il Carnevale” in Venice.  I have been there too, in 2000, but not around Carnival.  And, of course, I could go to Rio! I did in 2005, but missed the carnival by about 6 months.  The main reason why I do not do these things is because I am cheap, I fail to plan long enough in advance, and I really do not like very large crowds.

I like to go to smaller, more intimate celebrations – like the time I celebrate Mardi Gras in Baton Rouge.  I like it when there is a lot of interactions between the participants and the crowd, and that is why I have always liked the Carnaval of Malmedy.  I went there regularly in my youth, but probably had not made it in more than 30 years.  I decided that I had to go this year.

The weather on Sunday was not the best.  It started snowing as soon as I left Brussels but fortunately the roads were not too slippery.  They were not slippery, that is, until I arrived in Eupen – that is where the road starts to go up to the Haute Fagnes – a Natural Reserve know in English by its German name of Eifel (a lot of is was situated in Germany before WWI and this was re-taken by Germany during WWII – there was very harsh fighting in this area in 1944 and especially in the Battle of the Bulge).  With all the snow, I expected spectacular scenery and since I had a few hours before the parade started, I decided to make a short stop to what is probably my favourite nature spot in Belgium.  I was not disappointed!

Near the road, there were people leaving on cross country skis

I had a quick chat with one of the local ‘rangers’ – probably a volunteer who is available on week-ends, just in case.  She confirmed that the region has not seen such beautiful snow in many years.  I decided to go away from the skiers on some of the footpaths in order to get away from the crowd – I did not have to worry, there was not much of a crowd.  It was snowing lightly while I was there, but had been snowing harder during the week.  The trees were laden with fresh snow.

The moor – this area is actually a marsh – was untouched by human tracks – most of the reserve is closed as walkers could damage the delicate ecosystem (as I was told…).  Visibility was not that good as snow kept falling and was actually getting heavier.

The clouds were so low that in places the trees faded into the clouds

I kept this picture just to prove to you that these are not in black and white but really colour pictures… One of the very few walkers I met during my ‘adventure’.

More spectacular snow covered trees.

But it was soon time to go and drive one of the longest downhill roads in Belgium – downhill in this direction of course.  11 km from Baraque Michel to Malmedy.  I cycled it once (up hill and down hill!) and will do so again once the weather improves.

As soon as you get to Malmedy, you know that something is happening … There are people in costumes everywhere.

This is the “Haguete” – one of the traditional costumes that has been around since probably before the 19th century

If you would like more information on the Carnaval, please follow this link (it is available in English, French, Flemish and German)

http://www.malmedy.be/en/Tourisme/folklore-et-carnaval/le-carnaval/histoire.html

The french text also has pictures of all the traditional costumes.

You see people in ones and twos walking around, getting to rendez-vous from where they will leave together for the parade which starts at 13:30.

Here are three Pierots – the pram is not a typical part of the uniform…

Another Haguete followed by two Boldji (one of the few crafts represented in the Carnaval) – they are a more recent addition to the celebration.

Final picture of Pierots before getting to the parade start.

This poster indicates that this will be the 552nd edition of the Carnaval.  This is not an empty boast! There is a documents from 1459 indicates that there was a Mardi Gras celebration in Malmedy that year, and the test indicates that this was not the fist such event.  There were a few interruptions, such as during the two World Wars, but also in 1962 because of a small pox epidemic but the number is still impressive.

The Sunday celebration is started by the Dance of the Haguete, in the central square.  Each year a different Haguete society (like a Krewe in Louisiana, or a Samba School in Rio) will get the honour of ‘opening’ the show.

You have to remember that this is farming country – the floats that are not pulled by tractors are pulled by horses! this pair was particularly spectacular

They pulled the float of the society of wine tasters, amongst others …

Another pair of horses pulling a float celebrating Brazil and world football

Here are the three people who will have the honour of leading the parade!

I went along the route of the parade to get a good spot.  However, since the crowd was not very large, I was able to move around freely, and still take good pictures.

Another traditional mask – the Sote, or dwarf.  This is a traditional “parade” – most people walk, there are marching bands and only a few floats.

A marching band who decided to desguise themselves as Mandarins!  The colours (Black, Yellow and Green) that you see everywhere are the colours of the flag of Malmedy.

After each band, comes the real ‘fun’ of this parade.  Anybody can join (I did many years ago with my cousin on a tandem dressed as Dupont and Dupond!)

These are the “Happy-culturists” – they have a long reach with their confetti holders, long enough to reach into first and second story windows where unsuspecting spectators get a load of yellow confettis all over their living room.  I am still pulling some out of my hair and coat!

This band was dressed as traditional indians.  I was amazed at the details of the disguise, including make-up and the ladies with long, braided hair.  At first glance, I thought they were from India.

A gospel choir – they marched and danced and sang (a capella and with no amplification!)

It is clearly thirsty work!  Most people marching had a supply of drinks which they could tap into.  The atmosphere along the parade route was getting happier and happier!

The wine taster’s marching band

The kids have the important task – the cask!

The vikings have landed looking to learn about fear

Fortunately, Obelix is not too far and will protect us.  This is the real attraction for me – anybody with an idea, with a disguise, can join in the fun…

There were two groups of young people who paraded (young – teenagers!).  I do not remember where these came from.  I was happy to see that the tradition is not stopping and that local children, instead of moving out of the rural areas, are taking part in the traditional values of the place.  OK – it is a good excuse to dress-up and have a lot to drink with your friends, but still, they can do that every  week-end and made the extra effort ot put together costumes and a float.

The is the group ”Jeunesse de Geromont” – a small town between Malmedy and Waimes, probably only 1000 inhabitants live there….

Walk is another small town near Malmedy – they had a Mickeys and Minnies Dance group!

This is the time when I lost all feeling in my feet and decided I better leave if I wanted to avoid frost-bite!  The parade was almost over, but I am sure the celebrations were just beginning.  Well worth the trip!

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pierreo February 13th, 2010

I had a very interesting two weeks!

If you have read the “Who” Page of this blog, you will know that I try, every month, to do something special – my way of preventing from falling into too much of a routine, and making sure that I enjoy life to the fullest.  I am not going to have any problems fulfilling this requirement this month!

Actually, I started in late January with a visit to the BRAFA – the 55th Brussels Antiques and Fine Arts Fair.  This is very ‘posh’ and proper – all the pieces shown are for sale, but I could not afford most of them (and really would not want a lot in my apartment!) but it is like a visit to a museum.  I did not expect to find anything that I would be tempted to buy, and I was not proven wrong.  However, it was still an interesting visit, made more so by the location.

BRAFA is held in the old industrial estate of Tour et Taxi, nothing to do with either a tower or taxi cabs but used to belong to the German enterprise of “Turm und Tassi”, and this is the literal translation of the two German words.  They are located along the canal on the North of Brussels and I am not sure what they used to do in there.  For much of my youth, what little of it I spent in Brussels, these were derelict, abandoned buildings.  They were renovated 10-15 years ago and now host a number of events.  It was the first time I was able to go inside.

My cultural tour continued on 1st February with a very unusual concert: “Jerusalem” by Jordi Saval.  The concert essentially retraced the history of Jerusalem from antiquity to modern time through the music of the people who occupied it over the years.  I really enjoyed it even though it was “difficult” music – difficult on the public in so much as it required a lot of our attention in order to really enjoy the experience.  I often listen to music while I am doing something else (I am listening to “The Phantom of the Opera” right now) but I could not do anything while this was playing.  There are songs and recitations in several languages, and the words are just as important as the music.  During the concert, there were super-scripts (in two languages of course – this is Brussels) to allow us to follow the meaning; if you listen to it at home, you would have to follow the text from the libretto.  Here is the cover art in case you are interested in buying – my recommendation: go see the show if you have a chance!

Some of the words could be considered almost incendiary in today’s environment (they were also incendiary at the time) – one in particular was a speech by Urban II in support of the first crusade.  Let’s just say that his description of what Christians should do to the Muslims who occupy Jerusalem is not far at all from what the most fundamentalist Muslim Imams are urging their followers to do to Christians.  We all know how we react to those speeches!

I was able to find a transcription of the speech on Internet – what a wonderful device… – and here are a few excerpts:

“Oh, race of Franks, race from across the mountains, race chosen and beloved by God as shines forth in very many of your works set apart from all nations  by the situation of your country, as well as by your catholic faith and the honor of the holy church! …. From the confines of Jerusalem and the city of Constantinople a horrible tale has gone forth and very frequently has been brought to our ears, namely, that a race from the kingdom of the Persians, an accursed race, a race utterly alienated from God, a generation forsooth which has not directed its heart and has not entrusted its spirit to God, has invaded the lands of those Christians and has depopulated them by the sword, pillage and fire; it has led away a part of the captives into its own country, and a part it has destroyed by cruel tortures; it has either entirely destroyed the churches of God or appropriated them for the rites of its own religion.”

You can find the full test at: www.medievaltymes.com/courtyard/urban’s_speech.htm

There was also a song from the Auschwitz Concentration Camp, talking about the death of million of Jews.  The credits indicate that it has been written in 1941 but the decision of the Final Solution was not made until 1942 (even though ‘work’ camps already existed long before that and Jews were restricted to ghettos) so there is a mystery for me.

A somewhat ‘less cultural’ activity took me to Southampton for two days of meetings … thrilling as a short business trip can be!

On 6 February, I had another concert, and another discovery.  “Il Retablo de Maese Pedro” by Manuel de Falla.

The puppet show is a “silent” show with a narrator providing explanations of what is happening.  The story is that of the beautiful Melisande taken prisoner by the ruthless Arabs in Grenada and how Don Gaelinz is trying to free her.  The audience of the puppet show, the puppet master and the narrator are puppets as well, but about 5 meters tall and operated by three to five handlers! One of the spectators is Don Quichote, and he cannot help but get involved with the show.  The show ends in total chaos as Don Quichote no longer can tell the difference between fiction and reality and attacks the muslim puppets holding Melisande prisoner!

Another great show, but I am not going to run out an buy the album anytime soon…

Finally on Sunday 7 February, I went to see an exhibit on the Silk Road, especially the people who lived along the silk road and their cultures.  It was very well done, with a mixture of history and culture that kept me entertained for close to two hours.  I have not done enough of that – Saturdays and Sundays are already so busy catching up on what I cannot do during the week that I lack the energy to still go out and visit the many exhibits and musea that exist in Brussels.  However, since I have to do something at least every month, I will have the motivation to do more each month to come. Let’s hope…

My apologies to the readers who only look at the pretty pictures – you have to read this time!

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pierreo January 30th, 2010

A couple of weeks ago, I spent a weekend on the Southern coast of Holland, in a small town called Domburg.  Here is a view of the town on a very bright Sunday morning (It rained a lot on Saturday, so no pictures then)

The view on the other side of the beach is very nice too

Because of the rising sun, the view towards East, the Schelde estuary and Belgium is eerily shadowy

We went hicking in the Natural Reserve called Oranjezon.  There were not many people around, as the temperature was still rather cold.  But we did run into a group of hairy mules grazing in between the dunes

I was surprised to still find berries on branches totally devoid of leaves

We made it to the beach, where the dunes are diminishing.  The tide is low and therefore the beach is at its maximum width.  In the distance, we could the beginning of the “Delta Project” – massive construction in the late 50’s which is still protecting the low lying areas on Holland from the sea.

We also went to Veere, a town which used to be a sea port but is now on a closed body of water called the Veerse Meer.  There are several sets of locks between it and the open sea.  However, this is very good protected water and therefore sailing is a popular pass-time.  During the summer months, the Veerse Meer is a very popular spot for windsurfers.

Veere is a typical Dutch town, with narrow lanes and squares surrounded by houses built 300 or even 400 years ago and which have been preserved as they were then.

City Hall is a quite an interesting building dating from the end of the 16th century

In keeping with the historical significance of sailing to the town, the wind vane at the top of the tower sports a beautiful sailing ship

The church is surprisingly large for such a small town.  It is no longer used as a church but as an art gallery.  Many of the original windows have been walled in order to make heating easier, I guess.

There are more picturesque lanes.

Here is the house of a local artiste, and an interesting way to advertise…

And what is a Dutch town without a windmill?

After a very nice lunch in a local cafe with clothing store, we had to get back home.  It was quite a nice week-end.

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pierreo January 23rd, 2010

Every year, right at the beginning of the year (January and February), funny things happen in Baton Rouge.  The natives seem to get restless!

Even though the grass still is not growing all that much, people take their lawn mowers for a walk.  Actually, not satisfied with walking their lawn mowers, they actually take them “line dancing”.  If you do not believe me, take a look at this from 2005.

And they take this very, very seriously … Every Sunday for four weeks they endure motivational speeches mixed with vague threats and the occasional “I am really not happy about this!”

Strange creatures appear which do not seem to ‘belong’ in this environment.  Is this an Alien?  He does not look anything like me though …

In houses throughout Baton Rouge, friends get together for secret missions.  If you listen carefully, you can hear coded sentences: ”We still have to make 136 tail feathers but 35 of the butt cones are already done”.  There are feathers and butts everywhere…

Chickens everywhere are donating their heads for a good cause.

Our chief costume designer helps out too, of course.

How did all this get started: In December 2004, a couple of friends asked me if I wanted to join them and their friends for the Spanish Town Parade in Baton Rouge.  I knew they were not asking me if I wanted to go watch the parade with them.  I knew that they marched in the parade each year and I did not hesitate for a second before agreeing.  The parade is held the Saturday before Mardi Gras in the downtown district of Baton Rouge.  There was a catch – of course – if I wanted to participate, there was a price to pay.  I was encouraged to help with making the costumes – this is a low budget group, but believe it or not, getting ready for the parade is almost as much fun as the parade itself.  I was glad to pitch in and learn a dozen new uses for a hot glue gun.

Our theme for the parade was “Poultry in MOWtion” – not a spelling error;  the Krewe of Yazoo always has either LAWN or MOW or MOWER in the title, hence the dancing with lawn mowers – DUH!  We made 42 chicken costumes and two chicks in less than one month.

The day of the parade started early, with a sumptuous breakfast in the shadows of the New State Capitol Building.

… and chickens started getting ready …

… and appeared out of the strangest places …

The mowers were already decorated and the tension started to mount …

One final dressed rehearsal before the show starts promptly at noon – the Krewe is ready!

It is finally time to go.  The float leads the way with “Bead-throwing” chickens.

Followed by the banner

I had several trips out of town in January and February and therefore could not attend all the practices.  As such, I was not part of the dancing team, which left me free to take pictures and go up and down the line trying to stay out of the way.  I knew that the Spanish Town Parade was popular, and I knew that the Krewe of Yazoo was well known.  I just could not have expected what I was about to experience.  At the beginning of the parade, I was towards the front and was surprised that nobody seemed to react to the float with the large sign “Krewe of Yazoo”.  They also did not react much to the banner.  However, as soon as the first lawn mower would be in sight, you could hear everyone shouting “The Lan Mower Krewe” or “Look – it’s the lawn mowers!”

During the parade, Colonel Sanders was salivating at the thought of all he could do, if only we’d let him…

The street was full of people everywhere.  Some had even climbed on trees to get a better look.

and they saw 36 chickens pushing lawn mower in perfect unison.

Jon and Mary had invited me to participate.  I know that it is sometimes difficult to tell the difference with chickens, but in this case Mary is on the left – Jon has the dark glasses…

Dave is the leader of the Krewe

Fraternizing chickens??? I do not often show pictures of myself on this blog – here is a rare chance: I am the one on the right.

Since I was not dancing, I also had more time and opportunities to interact with the crowd.  Our costumes were a great success; many people asked to have their pictures taken with one of us, and I seemed to be the most readily available.  This is something that does not happen to me very often, so I made the most of it; the great thing when you wear a disguise, even if your face is not covered, you feel that you are some one else and therefore there is a certain level of anonymity in everything that you do…

The signature piece of the Krewe of Yazoo is the Can-Can.  Have you ever seen 36 chickens dancing the can-can. As they would say in Singapore “Can … Can!”; well I can can say that I saw it!

This is worth more than one picture

Up to the very end of the parade route, several miles long, the crowds were still present giving us enough energy to keep going.  It is now past 2 PM and we have been walking/dancing for two hours, but we have been in the area since early in the morning.

After the parade, we took a few pictures of the whole Krewe

Just to prove that this did take place in Baton Rouge, here is a sight that the Capitol Building and its normal occupants are not likely to see again soon.

For me, this was one of those unique experiences that more than compensate for the difficulties of having to move regularly and re-create one’s life again in another part of this amazing world.  This is where I discover again (we all need this reminder regularly) that the world is a wonderful place for many reasons, but the main reason is that everywhere you go there are friendly people who are eager to share their culture and their way of life with anybody who shows a little interest in learning what makes them who they are.  To the Krewe of Yazoo who made it possible for me to have this special experience, I say “Thanks” once again. I have not forgotten, and will not forget a great day at the end of two fantastic months of preparation.

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