I had read about Ayuthaya almost as soon as I had arrived in Singapore, in 2000, as soon as I bought my first guide book on Thailand. I had thought about going there several times, but never quite decided to do so, because every time I tried to get information on how to get from Bangkok to Ayuthaya, I could not get anything definitive.
However, I could not leave Singapore without going there – so I looked at it one more time and decided that I would find a way – any way – whatever it took – to get there.
So I booked a flight to Bangkok and a hotel in Ayuthaya (the BEST hotel in the city which cost me a grand total of 80 euros for three nights!) and left with no idea how I would get from point (A) to point (B). I figured there would be help at the airport.
At the ‘new’ Bangkok airport, I go to the Travel Information desk and ask how to get to Ayuthaya. I am told to take a taxi. That is not the answer I wanted so I prod a little and ask about the train from the old airport to Ayuthaya. Indeed, that can be done – so how do I get to the old airport? “Taxi”. What about busses? I know that there are bussed from the Northern Bus Terminal towards Ayuthaya. Indeed, there are so how to get there? You probably have guessed the answer I got …
So I took a taxi, all the way to Ayuthaya! It was cheaper than I thought and very quick and easy. I figured I would do better on the way back since I had three days to figure out the answer.
Ayuthaya is on the Chao Phraya (the same river that crosses Bangkok) where it meets the Pa Sak and smaller Lopburi. The addition of a short canal means that the center of the city is an island surrounded by rivers. My hotel is right on the river and immediately I have a sight that I remembered from Bangkok, and which amazed me even at that time. It can be called “David and Goliath” – there is a tiny, tiny tug boat pulling usualy four enormous barges. I bet that in Tailand, there is a children’s story about “The Little Tug that Could”
After I arrive, I go walking about, but the weather is not very nice (and it is very hot) so I do not take any pictures. However, I do make arrangements with a local ‘boat man’ to have a tour of the canals the next day starting at 7AM – I want an early start to get the good light of the rising sun. It takes a while to explain what I want and agree on a price, but I figure that all is in order.
The next day at 7AM, no one! 7:15 still no one, but just as I am ready to leave, the guy arrives and we leave on his ‘long-tail’ boat. There are old and newer temples everywhere along the sides of the river. I am not sure what this one is called.
The tour includes several stops including this temple – Wat Chai Wattanaram
The Khmere influence is clear and one just wonders at what it must have been like with the large hall at the front still intact. The similarity with Angkor do not stop at the architecture – here too you can see headless statues everywhere.
At Wat Phutthaisawan, there are impressive rows of identical sitting Buddhas
The main tower is still covered in white slabs of local marble and sits next to a modern temple with music and prayers (I think..) blaring through loud speakers.
Walking around the temple, you run into the strangest views, such as the giant head of a reclining Buddha through a window
Later that day, I explore more temples on a moped – please don’t tell my mother… I promise that I was very careful and did wear a helmet the whole time.
Wat Phra Si Sanphet is known for its three identical stuppas – they were used for the burrial of former Kings of Siam when Ayutthaya was their capital. The grounds of the old Royal Palace are right next to the temple but there is nothing left of the palace. I could not get a decent shot of all three stuppas, so you will have to settle for just two.
Notice that there are very few people on all these pictures. Ayutthaya is not your usual Thai city. May be there is something good about it being so difficult to reach as all I saw were some local Thai tourists, a few back-packers and very few foreign tourists. Proof that this is off the beaten tracks – no ‘girly’ bars! Just regular bars where you can have a drink without being bothered. I went several times to this one ‘caffe’ (I could not really call it a restaurant even though it had good food too) which was run by a very friendly guy – I stopped there because it had a sign in French. The owner spoke decent French, and could say ‘hello’ in about 30 other languages. I stumped him at ‘capitals’ though as I found a few countries he had not heard of – let alone knew the capital. He did know a lot of them though.
When I approached the wall of one temple, I noticed quite a commotion. As I got closer, everything became quiet, but I still knew what happened. The two mina birds on the left were harrassing the poor green snake on the right. I am not sure who eventually won as I did not stick around to see the end of the fight.
These temples were built at the very beginning of Buddhism, when Hindu influences were still strong. Look at this picture – the central figure is clearly Buddhist, but there are Garudhas (an Indian Diety) at the corners of the tower. This is one of the strengths of Buddhism – it does not exclude local beliefs but instead melds them into its own ideology.
A classic view of Wat Ratburana that you can find in any guide book
Wat Phra Meru is one of the best preserved temples in Ayutthaya as it escaped destruction during the last Burmese invasion. It still required restoration. It houses a large sitting Buddha.
The fronticpiece of the main building once again shows multiple influencs with Buddha being carried on the back of Garudha
I had to get a few ‘sunset’ photos. The sky was never clear enough to get really good light, but the foreground is about as good as you can get.
Once again, there is proof that all photos should be taken either one hour after sunrise, or one hour before sunset – the light is much better.
Locals were enjoying the last rays of sunlight
I have to return the moped, so I just have time for one more picture
The next day, I had to get back to Bangkok. But I was prepared. I was told that I could take the train to the old airport (about 1 hour) and than a minibus to the new airport. What could be simpler. Well, it seems things never are…
At the staion, I get a ticket about 30 minutes before the train arrives. I had trouble understanding the cost of the ticket, mostly because I could not believe that it would only cost me 11 Bahts (or less than 0.50 euros). The train is OK and I get off without difficulties at the old airport. That’s when I find out that the airport is still closed – no help there. I look around for what may be a ‘minibus’ stop but cannot see anything. I look for a “Help Desk” at the station – no luck. I find a Taxi stand and succomb! It was a lot cheaper than the trip to Ayutthaya, but still, I wanted to find a way without having to take a Taxi. Maybe next time!
(777 Page Views)
That seems like a really quick trip, compared to some of the others that you’ve described.
Getting off the beaten path from tourists sometimes takes effort. I usually don’t get away from cities very often, and like to poke around neighbourhoods where everyday life goes on. (I learn a lot by going into grocery stores).
I was amused by your airport transfers in and out of the city. I prefer to take public transportation, too, as it sometimes leads to more adventures … although I never it cut it close enough to risk missing a flight.
It’s SE Asia! We go everywhere by taxi – must support the industry. :o)