Unfortunately, I had to leave Venice. While I was there, I discovered that a new exhibit about painters who lived in Paris in the twenties was opening soon in Ferrara. I had one night of unplanned stay and so decided to head South.
I made my first stop in a town I first visited in 1971 and again in 1980. Ravenna is not well known amongst international tourists and yet it should be. There is a lot to see here.
I first stopped at the Basilica San Vitale. This, I believe, is the oldest church I have ever visited. It was consecrated in 547 (I did not forget the 1 in front!). It’s design is octagonal as most early churches were and the walls are feet thick. However, it is an unbelievable edifice!
The inside is sparsely decorated, but there is a very nice mosaic right over the altar. In a place like this, it almost seems as if time has stopped. I can only imagine the 1000’s of people who have come here over the many many years to pray, to gain some comfort, to believe and to admire. One can easily understand the power that the church had at that time considering the available choices.
A detail of the extremely intricate mosaic over the altar.
Next to the Basilica is the Mausoleo di Galla Placidia – the half-sister of Roman Emperor Honorius who reigned between 395 and 423 and died in Ravenna. I could not find out when it was built, but probably in the first half of 400AD! It is small and cramped, and poorly lit, but quite exquisit… Galla Placidia is not actually burried here (she died in Rome) and no one is sure who was intended to be in the three sarcofagi (their contents were apparently burnt in the 1500’s).
You know you are in a “special” place when the “New Church” was built in the 6th century! That is the case of the Basilica di Sant’Appolinare Nuovo.
On either sides of the Nave, there are mosaics depicting processions – 26 martyrs on the right heading towards Christ
and 26 virgins bearing offerings to the Madonna on the left
Dante’s tomb is also located in Ravenna. He was exiled from Florence in 1302 and died here in 1321. Per the Lonely Planet: Florence still supplies the oil for the lamp that burns continually in his tomb as a perpetual act of penance for having exiled him. Unfortunately, the church where the tomb is located was closed for the ‘siesta’ and I could not wait until 3PM for it to reopen.
Instead, I went to see the third ‘gem’ in this incredible city – actually, this one is located 5 km out of town, in a small village called Classe. This is Sant’Apollinare in Classe and was also built in the 6th century.
More spectacular mosaics over the altar here! Sparse decoration everywhere else.
A more detailed view is worth it here again…
I decided to spend the night outside Italy, in the small Republic of San Marino, which is only 20 km outside of Ravenna. The Old Town is ocated at the top of a hill 650 m high. On a clear day, you can see quite a view that stretches all the way to the Adriatic Sea and the beach resort of Rimini.
City Hall, and Government Palace, and Army Baracks, and Wedding Chapel etc. the Palazzo Publico is the main monument in town.
Just to prove my description right, there was a wedding when I was there. Quite a crowd had gathered and the important guests had been allowed to drive all the way to the Palazzo – normally, cars are not allowed in the center of the town. There was one car that attracted my attention. My mother had one of these, exact same color too, when we lived in Italy. It may look very small, but it was not unusual for us to have 4 kids in the car, plus my mother driving! The big black car is there just for scale – what I am interested in is the red Fiat 500, and not a recent model, but the original from the 60’s.
Other than that, San Marino is pretty much a tourist trap! 80% of the stores are souvenir stands. I went in search of a restaurant – the most important factor in the choice was not the quality of the food (I knew that would be fruitless) but the restaurant needed to have an outside garden with view to the West. I was entertained through dinner by the sun!
It was a leisurely dinner, so I had many opportunities to snap.
The view stretches across the Apennine Mountains – the chain that forms the backbone of the boot of Italy. Here they are not very high – they get more impressive further South.
On the way back to the car, I could not resist one more shot.
I had never been to Ferrara, so I was discovering this town.
The main Cathedral has an unusual style, but very pleasant. The bell tower is not very high and placed well behind the front of the church, also unusual. I did not go in as this was a Sunday and I prefer not to visit during church services.
The portico over the central door into the church is being carried by creature who are clearly paining under the strain.
Ferrara was the fiefdom of the Este Family (the same who built the Villa D’Este outside Rome). They ruled here from 1260 to 1598 and were great partons of the arts. Petrarca, Titian and Ariosto (I did a write up on his ‘Orlando Furioso’ when I was in School in Belgium) all spent a lot of time in Ferrara sponsored by the Este Family. Their humble abode is still in the center of the city – called Castello Estense.
I really enjoyed the show and with everything else that I did on the way here (Ravenna and San Marino), I am really glad that I made the detour.
I am now heading to the Lago D’iseo, smaller and less known than the other great Italian Lakes (Garda, Como and Maggiore). I had booked in a small hotel in Riva di Solto and was rewarded with this view from my balcony.
I would usually read on the balcony, if I could concentrate long enough, while waiting for time to have dinner. This is unfortunately looking due South and therefore no sunrise or sunset of any significance.
However, as I was having dinner along the lake shore, I saw the moon rising and had to take a photo (even though all I had with me was my phone).
It is amazing what a little bit of Photoshop can do!
I drove to the Passo Stelvio. It is famous for several reasons: (1) it is one of the highest passes in the Alps at over 2800 meters; (2) there is a glacier just above it and it is therefore one of the few ‘summer’ ski resorts in Europe; and (3) it is often the toughest climb in the Giro D’Italia cycling race. As I said, I drove up the Passo Stelvio. On the side that I took, the climb start at only 1200 meters and there are 40 switchback turns. Below is a typical view of the road in which you can see at least 20 of the hairpin turns. I was lucky that there was little trafic and I was able to do the ‘harder’ sections on my own.
The road on the other side of the pass is very similar, with quite a few more switchback turns. The Stelvio is interesting as it is one of the few high passes that is entirely in one country – that being Italy. However, we are very close to the Swiss and Austrian borders and the side now visible was part of Austria until World War I.
I had lunch in this restaurant – great view! I was happy that the sun was out as otherwise, the temperature would have been uncomfortable at this altitude. Even though I was in Italy, I was surrounded by people who spoke German, including the staff in the restaurant. I almost ordered in German, until I remembered that I was still in Italy. Most of them looked like they were motorcycle riders who must have had a really good time riding up! I saw quite a few cyclist as well; I admire their courrage as this is a very tough climb.
Here is a view of the ski resort. There are three large hotels. A cable car leaves from here to go up to 3400 meters where there is permanent snow – however, you cannot ski here in the winter as the pass is closed. I saw members of the New Zealand and Slovenia Ski Teams returning from their morning practice session, I suppose; I had heard that many teams come here at the end of summer to begin preparation for the upcoming downhill skiing season.
As I said, Switzerland is not far from here – the border is actually at this restaurant that is within walking distance of the main resort on the other side of the main road.
On the way back towards the Lago d’Iseo, I was traveling in narrow valleys. On the way up, I had noticed a small town precariously perched on the side of the mountain, and I decided to explore on the way back and look at the view. On the near side, there are terraces with grape vines (this is wine country too) while the opposite side is too steep and looked like mostly pastures.
Closer to the lake, I stopped in another small town “with a view”
I stopped near a small chapel and it is from the plazza in front of it that the view was the best. The chapel was locked and the sign indicated that there is only one service a week on Sunday – there is probably one priest for several such places in the valley.
The following day, I decided to explore the Lago di Garda. I had been there a few times when I was living in Milan; the guide recommended this cable car that leads to a mountain with a beautiful view of the lake so I decided to have a look. It took me two hours to cover 40 km along the lake – it was basically a 40 km trafic jam and this at only 10AM on a Tuesday! When I got to the cable car, the line waiting for tickets stretched across the street. I decided I had better things to do and just drove up nearby and went for a walk. This is the only picture of the lake you will see…
I quickly gave up on Lago de Garda, and went wine shopping instead – successfully I might add.
I headed back for the quieter Lago d’Iseo where I could walk along the edge without having to fight the crowds.
I discovered going through the Lonely Planet Guide that there is a very high concentration of ancient rock art just North of Lago d’Iseo. I decided to explore and went to the Parco Nazionale delle Incisione Rupestre (loosely translated this is the Rock Incision National Park). In less than a 1 hour hike, I saw more than 100 carvings on rock, some quite small, other much more important. Here is a first sample.
They are not easy to see – I am glad I was there early when the rays of the sun are still at a low angle. This particular rock seems to show a labyrinth and animals that existed in this area. It may have been used to teach hunting skills.
This second example seems to show a small village with houses. They appear to be built on stilts, with spikes on the roof – not sure what those are for. These carvings are estimated to be 4000-5000 years old.
I needed elevation to get a better view of Lago d’Iseo. I stopped in a small town above Riva di Solto for this view.
There is one large and two smaller islands in Lago d’Iseo – ironically for such a small lake, Monte Isola is the largest ‘fresh water’ island in Europe. I took the ferry from Sulzano to Peschiera Maraglio to explore this island – the shore along Sulzano is very nice too.
The smaller islands are privately owned. Here is one of them seen from Monte Isola. There is just one house on the islet, but you have to love the back yard …
There are very few cars allowed on M0nth Isola, and there are very few roads. Most people get around on mopeds, all sorts, all ages. This is the longest moped parking I have ever seen – the path leading to the ferry terminal is flanked by mopeds – they form an Honor Guard for all passengers arriving on the island.
I really enjoyed my time along the Lago d’Iseo. It is peaceful, quiet, friendly and relaxing. I think all of this is best represented by this photo of a couple really enjoying their afternoon boat ride …
Could it get any better than this?
Every time I come to Italy I really enjoy it. Hopefully now, I will be able to come here more often. Next time: Florence? Sorrento? Abruzzi? I am not sure yet – we shall see…
(958 Page Views)
