Category: Travel

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Botswana 3 – Moremi and Savute

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We spent two nights in the Moremi Game Reserve, the largest reserve in the Okavango Delta. We were back in our tented camp and back to getting up at 5:30 for a very early start.

It is amazing that the sunrises here are just as spectacular as the sunsets! We are staying on the side of a large pond and it is totally calm this early in the morning.

We immediately spot a pair of cranes

and soon after that a spoonbill – he actually mischievous…

We watch him as he fishes for small organisms in a water hole

We were so busy looking at the spoonbill, admiring the way he fishes that we almost missed another animal quietly approaching. However, the spoonbill knew what was going on and he alerted us when he started looking around. There is a Hyena going home after a long night of hunting.

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Botswana 2 – Okavango Delta

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As I mentioned in the last post, we moved from the desert to the top (North side) of the Okavango Delta. I had heard a lot about it in various Nature Documentaries and was fascinated by the thought of a huge river that opens up into a delta yet never reaches the sea. The water that flows from the tropical forests of Angola, rich with flood waters from the rain falling there, penetrates into the soil and evaporates before it can reach any major body of water. In Maun, where this journey started, there used to be two seasons, the dry and the wet, not because of rain, but because of the water from the delta. Water would flow for 6 months than stop and another six months later, would come back. There was wild celebration each year when the flood waters reached Maun again.

Things have changed about 6 years ago, I was told, as a result of the earthquake which created the “Boxing Day” Tsunami in December 2004 in the Indian Ocean. The Great Rift Valley, which cuts Africa in two and extends all the way into Zambia and Botswana is actually at the other end of the same tectonic plate that disappears under Indonesia at that end of the Indian Ocean – it is not, therefore, totally unrealistic that such a huge event at one end, had a small consequence at the other. Since then, rivers that had not flowed in 30+ years have started to flow again on a seasonal basis and Maun has seen more water than usual. There have been changes to the Chobe River as well, but I will get into those later, when we visit that area.

We arrived at noon and after lunch, some of us went on a boat trip to the Hippo Pool – I wonder what animals we will see there…

This is an African Darter. It took me a long time to remember the name (I am not sure why) and to also be able to recognize the difference between the Darter and the Cormorant – not until some one explained it to me clearly on a boat trip on the Chobe River. As Darters and Cormorants are often seen together, at first I was not sure which was which, but this is definitely a Darter – it spears its fish and therefore has a long, sharp-end beak.

We saw an Fish Eagle surveying the land. Soon after I took this picture, it flew away, majestically…

We were slowly travelling in small canals, with all sorts of grasses and reeds around us, especially papyrus. The water was very calm in most places (not really flowing) and the reflection of the grass in the water was almost perfect at times.

We ran into the same Fish Eagle just minutes later, in another tree. It has caught a pray and was eating it as we watched.

We eventually arrived at the Hippo Pool, and agreed that it deserved its name. There were at least 6 large groups of hippos in this one area. We observed this mother and baby just a little remote from the rest and were told that this is probably a male baby and the mother needs to protect him from the alpha male of the family …

A “Darter Tree” – no, they do not grow on them, but seem to favor this particular tree.

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Botswana 1 – Kalahari Desert

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In early April, I went on an absolutely fabulous trip to Botswana and Zambia.

It took a while to get there – Brussels to Frankfurt to Johannesburg and finally Maun in Botswana, just South of the Okavango Delta.  It took nearly 18 hours to get from my apartment to the small airport of this town which is the tourism hub of the country, and I was very glad to arrive.  As I wait for my luggage, I am clearly surrounded by other people going on “safari”.  There is one pair of Germans (Father and Son – I had noticed them coming out of the Frankfurt flight) who are completely dressed in brand new “safari” clothes, down to the hat with one side held up and the empty case for a ‘leatherman’ on their belt! I just hope they are not in my group …

In Maun, I meet the group leader Stanley and the rest of the group I will be travelling with.  We are just nine, Bob and Lynda from Oregon, Raymond and Trish from Connecticut, Pamela from LA and Jim from Ohio,  Sue from Chicago and Judy from Wisconsin.  We board two jeeps and head towards the lodge where will be spending the first night.

The tarred road quickly gives way to a soft sandy track where we are glad to have four wheel drive.  Soon after that we get to the gate of the “Private Game Reserve” and the fun starts right away.  Imagine meeting animals between the airport and the hotel.  First Giraffes with a small baby too …

and a small herd of Springboks …

as well as the odd ostrich

and finally Hartebeest.

Amazing to see all that even before you check into the hotel …

Our “rooms” are actually permanent tents installed throughout the property.  Mine looks like this:

with en-suite bathroom and an outdoor shower

I think I should be OK jn here for one night!

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Le Carnaval de Malmedy – 2011

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I spent a week-end in Arimont with friends at the beginning of March.  The main reason was for us to attend the “Grand Defile de Carnaval” in Malmedy on Sunday, but since we were there anyway, we went for a short walk on Saturday near the Lake of Robertville.  We started at the Chateau de Rheinardstein, recently reconstructed and actually occupied.

We got a good look at it because I initially took the wrong path … it has been more than 20 years since I last did this particular walk, and things have changed a little since then.

The weather was absolutely perfect, with bright sunshine even if a little cold.  We were prepared for that part.  As we got on the right path, I slowly started to see scenes which awakened old memories.

The Bahyon River is a small stream coming down from the Eifel which joins the Warche at this point.  The Warche goes to the Ambleve, then the Meuse and eventually to the North Sea.  We are not far from the sea, but still, four rivers removed from it.

At the end of the walk, we just ‘happened’ to pass by an excellent restaurant, with views over the Lake of Robertville, so we decided to have a late, leisurely lunch.

Sunday was a different story.  We came to Malmedy early to start soaking in the atmosphere so special at this time of year.  You could see preparations going on everywhere and people in the classical costumes congregating from all corners of the city.

There is some reliable information that indicates that this is the 553rd edition of this particular celebration – at least the first documented one was 552 years ago – I am not sure if we can prove that there was one every year since then.  I must have gone to more than 10 parades over the years.

Even the public is getting in the mood … this is not not some one I claim to know!

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My Mother’s 80th Birthday

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In the middle of January, I drove to the South of France to celebrate my mother’s 80th birthday.  I was not the only one to make this very special trip as you will see later.

I decided to leave early (on Friday) and male a first stop in the best wine growing town in the world (obviously my opinion that can be disputed by many, many people).  Indeed I stopped in the heart of the Cote du Rhone, in Chateau Neuf du Pape.

I arrived early and therefore decided to enjoy the local culture – I stopped at Chateau Mont Redon, Chateau La Gardinne and Chateau Fortia.  When the trunk of my car was full of 84 bottles, I decided it was time to stop and went to the restaurant where I had booked a room.  It is a common practice in this region for top quality restaurants to also offer rooms so that guests do not have to drive after a really good meal and La Sommellerie is one such restaurants.

They are located cose to the Rhone River, about 4 km out of town in an old farm house.  Since I was too early for dinner, I decided to go for a walk and discovered, quite accidentally that Chateau Neuf du Pape has a “River Stop”.  I had to investigate. 

It is just a place for ships to moor – I wonder what ships and when as all this looks very new.  However, I am enjoying the sunset and, as you know, I like to take photos of good sunsets, so I spent a few minutes there …

A sunset panorama is new for me.  With the river, the sky, and everything else, I decided to experiment.  You may have to scroll right to see the full effect of this one.

One more before I go for a really good meal.

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Malta – Part 2

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On the second day of the new year (Sunday), I decided to go visit Valletta.  It is now the capital of the island, but it is a relatively recent city.  Indeed it was founded after the great siege of 1565 when Malta protected the rest of Europe from the invading Turks. REALLY!   The siege lasted close to five months during which 700 knights and 8,000 ‘irregulars and mercenaries’ held of an invading force of more than 80,000 men.  Relief finally came on 7 September and by 8 September, the Turks left defeated – 8 September is now the “National Day” of Malta.  It took years after that before the Turks attempted another attack in Europe.

The Grand Master of the Knights of Malta at the time was called Jean Parisot de la Vallette.  The new city of La Vallette was founded in 1568 at the time of his death, but in honor of his life.

I was welcomed into Valletta (as it is known in English) by an musical and flag waving escort.  I wonder how they knew I was coming?

I had read in the plane flying to Malta that there was an exhibit ‘Creches’ (Nativity Scenes) at the Auberge d’Italie.  I need to provide a little more history here …

The Knights of Malta were divided into eight ‘Langues’, for the eight nationalities that it included: Italy, France, Provence, Auvergne, Castile, Aragon, Germany and England.  Each lived in its own ‘Auberge’; and these have been preserved in Valletta.

I have also discovered that Nativity Scenes are very elaborate in Malta and a very old tradition.  The oldest Creche is in Mdina – unfortunately, I realised this AFTER I had visited the city, so no pictures.

However, I saw very nice modern creches at the Auberge d’Italie – this one is relatively small – in total less than 1 m tall

Whereas others were much larger and complex

I had already seen a beautiful Creche in the main church in Paola – the one with the silver domes – I skipped that photo until I could talk more on the subject.

The best Creche, for me, was at the Auberge de Castille – a life-size display that occupied the second floor and the grand staircase to reach it.  Josef, Mary and Baby Jesus …

The sheep  and real bales of hay…

and, of course, the three wise men…

I drifted towards the harbor and decided to go take a look at it from above at the St’s Peter and Paul Bastion and the Upper Barrakka Gardens.  This is also the place for the ‘Saluting Battery’, a set of cannons used to salute visiting ships, but also used for the ‘Noon Day Gun’, a tradition in the British Navy used mainly to make sure that chronometers on board ships (used for navigation) were accurate before they set off to sea.

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New Year in Malta – 1

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I left Belgium on 29 December for a few days in Malta – I had never been there, and I figured the weather would be better than what I could expect home.  I arrived late as the flight schedule is not very good and so did not start exploring until 30 December.

I wanted to go first to Gozo, a smaller island North of Malta, as I knew that most museums and churches would be closed for the next few days – however, when I arrived at the ferry terminal, the line was very very long and therefore I decided that I would go on another day.

I went instead to Mdina, the Jewel in Malta’s crown as indicated in my guide.  The medieval center of the city, inside the fortified walls, has been preserved as it was many years ago.  The outer gates are impressive enough and you get the immediate reminder that Church and Army were often one and the same thing here.

I did not expect to see flowers ta this time of year.  There were clouds in the sky and therefore I had to try to time my pictures when the light was best – I was not always able to do it, but here my timing was OK…

Mdina is built on top of a hill – there is a great view from one of the squares on the North of the city – however, not as great as could be because of the poor light.  On a clear day, which this was not, you can see Sicily and Mount Etna about 100 km away.  I was more interested in the square and the architecture.

St. Paul’s Cathedral at Mdina is the original seat of the CatholicChurch on the island.  When Valletta was founded and became the capital, a new church was built there and is called the Co-Cathedral – there are still two “Cathedrals” in Malta even though there is only one bishop.  A strange quirk of history…  The exterior is not very impressive – the interior is much more decorated.  This is also one of the very few cathedrals I have ever seen with two cannons on the front (one is visible under the tree between the left and center doors, the other is to the right of the car between the center and the right door) – another indication of the struggles that Malta had to go through during its history.

Another of the gates in the old city.  While in Mdina, I started to learn more, a lot more, about the history of Malta and especially the history of the Knights of Malta, who ruled the island from the Crusades until late in the 19th Century.

However, human occupation of this island goes back long before the Crusades and Malta is actually the home of several sets of ruins that date back 4000-5000 years ago.  The megalithic temples of Hagar Qim and Mnajdra are close to Mdina, not far from the sea and open to the public so I decided to go take a look.  In the museum, I saw a picture that looked very familiar.  It is a picture of Bru Na Boinne, the megalithic temple I had visited only 9 months earlier during my trip i Ireland.  These were built around the same time, but there are no indications that the peoplewho built these were in contact with each other.

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Berlin – East and West

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I took advantage of  a holiday to spend four days in Berlin.  The weather was not the greatest, but I missed worst weather in Belgium, so I should be thankful; in general, the little rain I did have did not affect what I wanted to do.

My hotel was right on Gendarmemarkt, a square in what used to be East Berlin, but much developed since 1990.  There are two identical churches on the square and this is the French Huguenot’s Church during a rare bit of sunshine.

My first stop was Brandenburg Gate, from the East Side.  I had seen it in picture so much that I could not wait to see the real thing.  There is a very similar gate in Brussels, built in 1880 for the 50th anniversary of Belgian Independence.  The Brandenburg Gate is older, but a lot smaller – I was almost disappointed when I realised that the space between the columns is not really big enough for a car – except for the center span.  The Gate in Brussels is probably 30-40% larger than this one, but it certainly does not hold the same symbolic importance…

The view from the West Side has a little better light, but fewer people.  And you only see the back of Athena.  To get where I took this picture, I had to cross the ‘trace’ of the wall, for the first, bit certainly not the last time.  With it gone, it is almost impossible to imagine what the city was like when it was separated by that ribbon of concrete forms. 

Now, there is just a trace on the pavement that tells you where the wall was.  I am straddling the line where the old wall to take this picture. The wall’s location is indicated by the two rows of cobble stones heading away. 20 years ago – only 20 years ago – this picture would have been impossible and 21 years ago, this would have been very very dangerous!

Not far from Brandenburg Gate is the Memorial to the Murdered European Jews, an ensemble of 2711 upward boxes aligned in a square.  From the outside, it looks plain and mundane.  I had the impression that there were not many visitors at all.

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Slovenia 5 – Piran

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On the way to Piran, our next destination along the coast of the Adriatic Sea, we stopped for a last climb in the Slovenian Alps.  We were right at the border between Italy and Slovenia. It is a beautiful day and at one point we are actually walking on an ancient Roman road, with stone retaining walls still intact.

We actually cross into Italy at some point and can see forever down the foothills that go all the way to the coast near Trieste.  We find along the way, the border markers that mark the limit between Italy and Slovenia – typical tourist shot with one foot in each country.

At the top of the mountain (I cannot remember its name unfortunately), there is a small chapel where we stop for a short rest.  I take the opportunity to see how well I can photograph the different ridges that slowly descend towards the sea.  This is a wide angle shot that also shows some of the ground where I am standing for comparison and a little bit of colour.

Less foreground may actually be better – still with the wide-angle.

What about no foreground with a telephoto lens…

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Slovenia 4 – Kobarid

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After the Southern side of the Julian Alps, we headed for the area nearer the Italian Border and particularly Kobarid, on the Northern side of the same Julian Alps.  On the way there, we went through Kranjska Gora, probably the most famous ski resort in Slovenia and then up the Vrsic Pass.  The road was built mainly by Russian prisoners during World War I. In 1916, 400 workers were killed by an avalanche; in their memory of all who lost their lives building the road, a small chapel was erected on the site of the tragedy.

There was a group of Canadian Cyclists there when we arrived – a large bus had just pulled away.  I felt sorry for the cyclists having to do the pass (which is quite steep at times) on their bicycle, then I remembered that we were about to do a walk (with steep climbs as well) and we did not get any benefits, or a chance to rest,  going back down!  The place around the chapel, as always, is very peaceful and inspiring.  I was not able to find out how many more Russian Prisoners died of other causes during the construction of the road – I can only imagine though; conditions could not have been easy.

When we arrived at the top of the pass, we were in the clouds.  Visibility: about 5 meters.  As we were getting ready for our walk, I asked Ingrid to tell me again why we were doing this and she simply said: “For the view!”  And believe it or not, she was not kidding.  Just as we finished the first big climb, we cleared the clouds! We could see forever up and horizontally, nothing down.  There is a road down there somewhere, about 500 m below the top of the clouds.

For the next hour, we hike in and out of the clouds as the path we follow goes up a little or a little down.  The views are more spectacular one after the other.  We are on a ledge with the pass on one side and a large valley, also cloud covered, on the other – spectacular does not start to give the full impact.

One more panorama! Just another attempt to help you share in the magnificence.  We seemed to be alone too – I guess a lot of people must have given up at the bottom.

The view across the valley is amazing.  The mountains in the distance are in Slovenia, Austria or Italy.  Horizontal visibility is excellent – vertical visibility – well! – not so good.

We get to a small plateau between higher peaks.  There are small ponds which create excellent reflections of the surrounding mountains since there is absolutely no wind to ripple the surface of the water.

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