Posted in Travel

Japan 2009

When I went to Japan in 2008, I was very disappointed to arrive just too late for the “Cherry Blossoms”. It was a matter of days, but a very heavy rain storm two days before my arrival in Tokyo had made sure that there was not much left.
That and the fact that Jon and Mary had recently moved to Tokyo gave me enough reasons to spend a long week end there right after my return from Belgium.
I was much luckier this time, even if the “Peak” of the cherry blossoms was the week-end before. We went to Ueno Park – one of ‘the’ places for this activity. Since this was Friday and not a holiday in Japan, the place was not very crowded.
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Still there were people around, just enjoying the spectacle and also looking at the passer-bys.

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Ueno is a beautiful park that would be quite interesting enough even without the cherry blossoms.  There are statues of local heroes

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and a lake surrounded by cherry trees and surrounded further by large apartment buildings – a little like Central Park in New York – I felt the same atmosphere here.

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We went a little further and walked along a moat, surrounded by cherry trees.  Here as well, it is not at the peak, but I can just imagine what it can be like when all the trees are still in full bloom.  There are even view points set up where you can get the best view

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Cherry petals were falling in the breeze, at time, they could be mistaken for snow flakes.  In this particular area, the wind was pushing all the petals in the one corner of the moat, turning the water pink – ideal place for a romantic trip on a row boat

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Since I had arrived that morning after flying overnight, we called it a day early and went exploring for ‘shabu-shabu’.  We found a restaurant that was recommended right around the corner.  Based on the map, it was right across from the US Embassy.  When we get to the street and the place where the “X” should be, there is nothing.  Jon finally found the way (I believe the back way) by going through a car park and down stairs – there were 4 restaurants, including Shabusen.  Food was excellent.  We relaxed back at their apartment, enjoying the great view.

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The next day, we decided to go on a ‘rail trip’ and selected Kamakura based on the guide’s descriptions and the fact that it was only a 1 hour journey from Tokyo.

We took a subway than a train, than a tourist train and started at the Hase Dera.  There are perfectly manicured gardens as always in Japan

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The main temple buildings are surrounded by cherry trees and are peaceful – it is still early and the main throng of tourists have not yet arrived.

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Here is a good example of cherry blossom snow

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The garden had several of statues of Jizo, the patron saint of the souls of departed children.  An army of small urchins is supposed to be left there to honour children lost in miscarriages or abortions.

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I really liked this statue, not more than 1m high

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We had Okonomiya for lunch – we even had to cook them ourselves even though the waiter took pity on us and helped us to get started.

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and than walked to one of the main attractions in Kamakura: the Daibutsu – an 11.4 m tall sitting Buddha completed in 1252

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We took the bus back to the main train station – you have to remember than taking any public transport in Japan is always an adventure as none of the instructions are written in English, or in any characters that we could understand.  Fortunately, we had instruction in the brochure we had picked up at the train station; what they said was we needed to pick up a ticket on the way in, than a board would show how much we owed at each stop.  We needed top pay the driver on the way out – as it turned out, the Tokyo subway card worked here too, so we had no problems. Last on the agenda for the day was the main temple complex of Tsurugaoka.  There is already more of a crowd in the streets as we make our way down the pedestrian street.  There are also more people entering the temple compound

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There is a traditional wedding ceremony in the small temple at the bottom of the hill on the picture above

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The bride a groom are reciting their vows (I think – I am not very familiar with this – this may be the marriage contract he is carefully reading or just a poem that he wrote the night before…)

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Needless to say they are attracting a crowd – they should have anticipated this…

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Jon was not very successful feeding chocolate biscuit to the pigeons … it seemed to work with fish, but here the birds are definitely skeptical.

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The people who had real food did a lot better.

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Exploring Japan is always a discovery of new ways to spell Engrish – I certainly do not mean to be critical, just amused.  And I thank each and every person who tries to help us with a few Engrish sentences.  This board in front of an Italian restaurant is a typical example.

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I can understand most of what they are trying to say except for the part about small calamari and rape.  I am intrigued by the Italian style Bouillabaisse – a typical dish from Provence!

We did not stop at this establishment.

On Sunday, we explored a modern museum in Roppongi, with an excellent exhibition – I did not get all of the art pieces, but some did look quite difficult to do…  Later, we went to a concert by Blue Man Group and had a late lunch at a local Thai restaurant.

It was then time for me to go.  I took the subway from Mary and Jon’s apartment and had to change at the next stop.  I discovered that the walk from one platform to the next is quite long, and I did not have a whole lot of time.  I hurried and saw a train just arriving as I was approaching the platform.  Feeling lucky, I jumped into it, only to discover that is was going in the wrong direction.  I switched trains at the next station and made it to my next destination – Tokyo Station – with only 5 minutes to find the train to Narita Airport.  Fortunately my traveller instincts and vague memories of having done this before kicked in and I was in my reserved seat with 3 whole minutes to spare before the train left.  My passage through Narita was more sedate and I settled early in my plane seat ready for the excellent Singapore Airline service on the return trip to Singapore.

It was a very nice week-end.

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Japan – Himeiji, Kyoto and Mt. Fuji

Sorry for the delay in this last installment.  It was a combination of: diving trip to Manado, too much to do and computer problems.  Problems solved; need a little rest and no diving, hence, I am back…

From Hiroshima, we went to Kyoto, with a stop in Himeji.  This is where one of the best preserved, original feudal Japanese Castle is located.  The approach already tells you that this is something special

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We were guided inside the castle by a very nice volunteer guide on the left …

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I tried to visualise in my mind what this picture would have looked like a few weeks before, when the cherry blossoms were in full bloom …

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From Himeji it was back on the Shinkansen and off to Kyoto.  This was not my first visit to this city.  I had been there in 1985 and 2006, and really enjoyed both visits.  I was hoping to see a side of Kyoto I had not before, and I certainly did.

On the first evening, we went “Geisha” hunting.  Very quickly, we had initial success, but at a distance

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We had mixed success later until we ran into this beauty just coming around the corner

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On the second day, we went to visit a few of the ‘highlights’ of Kyoto.  First, the most famous ‘rock garden’ in Japan – we were there early and therefore the crowd was sparse.  Some of us took this opportunity to practice the meditation techniques learned in Koya San

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Then, the golden Pagoda

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We had an opportunity to participate in a ‘true’ tea ceremony

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and had, of course, another memorable meal

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I left Kyoto early so that I could spend a whole day near Mt Fuji.  It was quite an ordeal just to get there, and made me appreciate all the efforts of Hiro for the rest of the trip…

I took the Shinkansen from Kyoto to Mishima, a small station where only one in 5 or 6 trains stop.  There I had ten minutes to find a bus for Kawaguchi-Ko station.  First, I came out the wrong side of the station – the attendants at a shop were kind enough to redirect me after looking at the ticket I had (thanks Hiro for getting that for me).  On the North side of the station, no indications of any bus going to Kawaguchi-Ko.  I ask at the ticket office and am told that the bus leaves from stop number 2.  At stop number 2, there is a bus for Gotemba Station.  Just in case, I go in and ask the driver, who seems to say No!.  So I exit the bus, ready to wait for the next bus, but he calls after me, and explains that I need to change bus at Gotemba Station.  So I get in and an hour later, we get to Gotemba station.  The driver indicates stop 6 for Kawaguchi-Ko.  A bus is waiting, and the driver nods Yes when I ask about Kawaguchi-Ko – good sign.  The schedule says we are supposed to get there at 17:51.  At 17:46, we pull into what clearly looks like a train station, so I get ready to get off the bus … but the driver stops me, indicating this is not it yet.  5 minutes later, we pull into Kawaguchi-Ko station.

I had reserved at a local Ryokan and they indicated that they would pick me up at the station.  All I had to do was call when I arrived.  However, the web site also said that the staff had only limited knowledge of English.  The last test of the day was coming up.  I call the Ryokan and after greetings in poor Japanese, I ask if anybody spoke English and there was a long silence … some one else came on the line and I asked if they could pick me up at the station.  There was no immediate reaction, than I gave my name stating that I had reservation.  In very poor English, I guessed I heard “arrived” and “station” – when I said Yes, I was told 10 minutes and the line went dead.

All I had to do now was wait and hope.  10 minutes later a minibus from the Ryokan pulled up and I was on my way to the hotel.  Great place, very comfortable and great location.  All was GOOD.

Next day was my one chance to see Mt Fuji.  I went back to the station to go to the tourism office.  There I was told there were no buses up the mountain as the roads were still covered in snow.  However, they gave me a map that showed the way up the mountain, and I decided to walk towards the approach.  The sky was partly cloudy, so I had some hope.  About 5 km out of twon, I was walking along the road looking directly at the mountain.

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Unfortunately, the clouds were still there …

In the afternoon, I decided to go around the Kawaguchi-Ko lake.  There too, there are wonderful views of Mt. Fuji reflecting into the lake waters.

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The clouds are still there

For sunset, I took a cable car to the top of hill that overlooks Mt Fuji.  Here I am in front of the mountain.

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Unfortunately, there is still a cloud between me and the mountain.

I guess I was destined no to see it! The next day, the clouds were still there and I decided not to wait and see if they would lift. I took a train to Otsuki, than one to Tokyo and finally to Narita where I arrived in the early evening.  I stayed at the Hilton Narita – my first real bed in 14 days; I had dinner at the hotel restaurant where I had steak and chocolate cake – my first western meal in 14 days.

Every time I go to Japan, I discover new aspects of the culture and society that leave me wanting more.  We explored aspects of food and culture I had never seen before and I am left with more hunger than when I started.  I know I will be back exploring the North of Honshu and Hokaido next time.

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Japan – Osaka and Hiroshima

From Koya San, we did the return journey by bus, funicular, train, train, train back to Osaka.  Luckily this time as we missed rush hour and had fewer trains.

Our first stop in Osaka was lunch – what else on a Food Lover’s tour.  We had Tako-Yaki, also known as ‘pizza balls’ – here they are typically filled with octopus, but you can also have shrimp, or beef.  The catch is that you have to make the balls yourself, and it takes a little practice to get them right.  I was concentrating so much on making my lunch, that I do not have any pictures of our results.  Fortunately, the looks do not affect the taste, and they were great.  Later on, we were able to see the ‘experts’ in action.  From right to left, you can see the evolution from a flat shapeless blob to round balls that are sold on the street.

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In the evening, we had a ‘fugu’ meal, another local specialty.  Fugu, also known as blowfish – here is what it looks like alive in the local market …

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is extremely toxic, especially the skin and the internal organs.  A restaurant and a Fugu chef have to have a special license to be able to serve fugu and must dispose of the discarded bits in a special way.  We had Fugu Sashimi, broiled fugu, steamed fugu, pickled fugu and fugu miso soup.

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I made several attempts to visit the Osaka Art Museum, but the first day I arrived too late to still get in, and the second, it was exceptionally closed for the day – I decided instead to go for a view of the city from the top of the highest building.  It gave me a unique view of the Osaka Castle, a reconstruction in concrete which I decided not to visit since we are going to go see the ‘real’ thing in Himeji later.

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and I also discovered that some Japanese women like to dress in Kimono, just to go around town …

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After Osaka, we go to Hiroshima.  I cannot say that the city is still traumatised by the events of 6 August 1945, but a lot in the city revolves around Peace Park and the Atom Bomb Museum.  The most recognisable landmark is what is left of the regional government building only 200 m from where the bomb exploded (it never touched ground as it exploded about 100 m above ground).

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As I had already seen the Peace Memorial Park and Museum, I decided to go visit the Japanese garden of Shukkei-en.  It had been right at the edge of the zone devastated by the bomb and was used as a place where wounded victims gathered awaiting medical help.  Unfortunately a lot of them died before anything could be done for them.

The garden is very peaceful and I was lucky enough to once again run into Japanese women wearing their kimono – making the experience even more authentic.

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Several years ago, I bought a book first published in 1946 by John Hersey called Hiroshima.  It is the tale of the day before to the day after the bomb fell.  I have never been able to confirm if this is pure fiction or real testimonies of what happened, but it is very realistically told.  And I am now sure that most of what he says is indeed based on facts and eyewitness accounts.  Hiro had arranged for us to meet a survivor of the bomb; for one hour, he slowly, and at times with obvious discomfort explained to us what happened to him that day when he was just 16 years old.  He reminded me of the book I had read years ago and now that I have seen what the city looks like, I should read it again to get a better feel for what it says.  Survivors of the bomb are getting fewer and fewer – the youngest is 63 having been in his mother’s womb on that day.  These are experiences that need to be captured now, before they are lost forever …

Hiro had also asked us if we wanted to go to a baseball game.  We all said yes.  Hiro claimed not to be an avid fan, but came prepared for us when we met just before the game

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There are lot’s of similarities between the game in Japan and in the US.  No, this is not the Philly Phanatic moonshining off-shore but is the local cheerleader

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And while there are differences, they have not replaced the pitcher by five ladies with Lacrosse sticks.  This is the ceremonial first pitch – I did not even know they played Lacrosse in Japan.

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We were amongst the local fans and since the Hiroshima Carps won the game, there was a lot of atmosphere throughout.

The ‘must-do’ day trip from Hiroshima is to go to Miyajima.  The reason to go there is to take one of the most famous photos of Japan – the floating torii gate of the Itsukushima Jinja Shrine

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Hiro added a new twist by asking us to jump just as he took the picture

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There is also Mount Misen, where, if you are lucky, you can see some of the local wildlife

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But you can also see the famous torii gate from a totally new angle (you need to go to the very top, where there is a watch tower – lean over the top handrail a little – don’t tell my mother – and this is what you get)

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The Japanese are not particularly known for their sense of humour – but here is some, in two languages …

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In the afternoon, it was low tide and the area around the torii gate was full of people digging into the sand.  I never discovered what they were looking for.

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The trip would not be complete without some food – right?

The local specialty: Hiroshima style Okonomi Yaki – there is a building in town called Okonomi mura where there are 3 floors of nothing but Okonomi Yaki restaurants.  The food is prepared right in front of you – this time, we did not have to do it ourselves.

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It is off to Himeji and Kyoto next – stay tuned…

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Japan 2008 – Takayama and Koya San

After the visit to the fish market, we left Tokyo for Takayama, located in the mountains North of Nagoya.  For this trip, everybody had to have a 14-day JR Pass, allowing us to ride on almost any train, at anytime for the duration of our trip.  So we took the Shinkansen from Tokyo to Nagoya, and than a local train to Gero.  We had to stay there as there is a festival in Takayama and all hotels are fully booked.

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We had hope that the cherry blossoms would be still in full bloom here, but again, we are just too late.  We are higher up, but further South from Tokyo.  However, the town does offer some picturesque views.  However, our main goal is Takayama, another 1/2 hour on the train.

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The old part of town has been protected and winds around a small river.

You can ride around town the ‘old fashion way’ …

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As before, food is an important part of our trip. In the hotel, we are ready for our traditional dinner – Hiro and I have also decided to wear the traditional Yukata – casual wear for inside the house.

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The second day, we get to experience the Takayama Festival.  It is centered around a series of floats which were initially built centuries ago

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They each have a mechanical puppet who does the most intricate dance

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I saw two separate performances amongst a sea of people, which is why the view was not always perfect …

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When the puppet needs a change of props, “magic Hands” appear from below, carefully disguised …

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There are also parades

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I was fascinated by one young girl, in the middle of this photo.  She was beating her drum with rare energy, as if it had seriously wronged her – and she never smiled once!  Since she was part of a band with mostly flute player, I surmised that she really wanted to play the flute and was mad at the band leader for forcing her to play this ‘dum drum’!

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But what fascinated me the most, were the kids who rode the floats.  This girl had exactly the same haircut as the puppet.

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There were others, just thrilled by the big crowds

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At the end of the day, though, it was time to put the floats back in their hangars – not an easy feat since they do not have a motor and all is done by ‘people power’.

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We left Takayama the next day, after a visit to two sake distilleries, and a little bit of education on the finer side of this traditional Japanese drink.

This was our longest travel day, not in distance, but in just about every other way.  We took a train from Gero to Takayama, another from Takayama to Nagoya and than a Shinkansen to Osaka.  Two short subway rides got us to another station still in Osaka.  We were in the middle of rush hour and in one subway, we were packed tighter than sardines – not easy considering that most of us were carrying two bags (I had two backpacks – a big one on my back and a smaller one between my legs).  We did not have to go far, so it was an interesting experience – but I am glad I do not have to do that every day.  We took two more trains, a funicular and finally a bus to get to Koya San – South of Osaka, surrounded by 7 holy mountains.  The two is full of temples as it is one of the most important ‘teaching’ center of buddhism in Japan.  We actually stayed in one of these monasteries and were awakened at 6:30 AM to participate in two of the morning ceremonies that the monks have to do (no pictures allowed – sad to say).  Here is the entrance to our ‘hotel’

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The town is very picturesque

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but  not the reason why many pilgrims come here all year long

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The largest cemetery in Japan is located here caled Okuno-In.  It has been active for hundreds of years and contains tens of thousands of grave-sites all built inside a beautiful forest.

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 You even had the obligatory black raven …

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Every space, no matter how small, is used as a shrine or memorial

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In the afternoon, we visited the most important temple in town: Kongobu-Ji.  It is home to one of the best and largest rock garden in Japan.  The rocks represent the head and back of a dragon sticking above the clouds (gravel).  This picture does not do justice to the real thing …

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By now, you must be asking: what does this have to do with food?  We has another feast at the end of our stay in Koya San, served by the training monks …

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Next stop – Osaka, after a bus, the funicular and several trains of course…

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Japan 2008 – Tokyo

I just spent two wonderful weeks in Japan, visiting some places I knew, but others I did not.  This was an Intrepid Travel tour, with a food theme.  I love Japan, and I love Japanese Food, so this was a trip made for me.  It gave me a good opportunity to dig into the Japanese culture even more than I had done on previous trips.

We started in Tokyo, where I had been before, but without ever exploring the city.

First sight was somewhat of a disappointment.  I had heard that cherry blossoms were at their peak in the Tokyo area, and yet when I went to look for them, this is what I found

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Closer inspection confirmed my fears

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I understood later that the Thursday before my arrival, there was a very significant rain storm in Tokyo which stripped the blossoms from the trees … something for me to look forward to the next time I go to Japan.

Near our Ryokan (we only staid in Japanese style hotels), was the Asakuza Shrine and I was lucky enough to see a wedding couple about to tie the knot.  She seems happy enough, but I am not sure he believes this is the happiest day of his life.

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 Evening comes very early in Japan as sunset is before 6 pm at this time of year (for some reason that I still do not understand, the standard time is Tokyo is set so that the sun is at its zenith at 11AM, so sunrise was about 5AM and sunset around 6PM!). Even through the clouds, the sun tries to provide a reasonable sunset.

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This was a food lovers tour, and therefore a lot of the activities revolved around food.  On the second day, we had a soba noodle making lesson.

Continue reading “Japan 2008 – Tokyo”

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