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Ireland 3 – Dublin and North

On my way to Dublin I decided to make a stop at Clonmacnoise, but before I got there, I stopped at Shannonbridge.  With a name like that, you can just guess what is coming next: a photo of a bridge over the river Shannon, and I shall not disappoint!

There was a motorcycle rally in town – I have never seen so many hairy people wearing so much leather – and I looked obviously out of place so I did not stay too long!

Clonmacnoise is described in ‘the book‘ as the “best monastic ruins in Ireland” so I could not miss that.  I was somewhat concerned by the size of the car park (it is BIG!), but then it was mostly empty so I guess I was at the right time of year.  For medieval ruins, the first statue I saw seemed to be anachronistic (much too modern) – but I still like it enough to take a picture.  It is the pilgrim arriving at his destination…

There is a very good video to introduce the site – I had the choice of waiting 1/2 hour for the English version, or have the French version in 5 minutes – so I decided to go along with a bus-load of Frenchies.  Around the ruins, some of the oldest high crosses in Ireland were found in excellent condition.  They have now been moved into the museum to preserve them and replaced in the field with copies.  They all date from before 1000 AD, much before most of the monuments left here.

This is called the South  Cross and is more than 2.5 m tall – it is very impressive; unfortunately there was not enough room for me to get a complete shot, even with my wide-angle lens.

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Ireland 2 – Dingle and Galway

I left the Waterford area and headed towards the Dingle Peninsula in county Kerry.

On the way there, I decided to make a small detour in order to stop at the Rock of Cashel famous for the medieval ruins (castle and church) which adorn the rocky summit of the town.  Even approaching, you get a good idea of the majesty of the place.  The fortifications dominate the whole area.

Inside the wall, there is a cemetery with many statues – this is one of the better ones.  In the distance, you can also see the ruins of Hore Abbey that was attached to Cashel.

There is a beautiful round tower in from of the cathedral.  The round tower is the oldest building on this site, built in the 12th century while the cathedral and castel were built in the 13th and 14th centuries.

There are always interesting view points inside ruins.  Unfortunately, the sun was not always cooperating today but there were some opportunities.

I did not spend a lot of time in Cashel, and did not go to Hore Abbey, as I had a long drive ahead of me to get to Dingle.  As I approached the peninsula, there were landscapes that reminded me of New Zealand.  This is very much like the pictures I took on the way to Mount Cook, on the side of Lake Pukaki.  The mountains here are not quite as high, and the water is salty, but the overall atmosphere is very much the same.

Things only improved as I got closer to Dingle.  I stop on the Inch Sand Spit, a 5 km beach that extends into the Dingle Bay.

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Ireland 1 – Waterford Area

After my quick stay in Wales, see the previous post on this subject, I made a dash across the Irish Sea to Ireland – actually a ferry crossing from Fishguard in Wales to Rosslarein Ireland, a 4 hour crossing which gave me plenty of time to relax.  As before, I will include practical details for this portion of the trip at the end of the post.

The first sight of Irish Land, was the lone lighthouse on Tuskar Rock, an isolated islet about 50 km from the coast.  Rosslare Harbour is visible in the ditance, especially its windmill farm, but hard to see on the photo unless you zoom in.

I did not arrive in Rosslare until 18:30 and had about a 1 hour drive to the guest house I had booked.  Fortunately, I could depend on the GPS in my car to steer me in the right direction.  Well, I thought I could until I discovered that there were new roads, not on my GPS and that other roads had changed number.  Right at the entrance to Waterford, there is a new by-pass that avoids the center of town and a bridge across the River Suir which is always a bottleneck with significant traffic jams.  I did not take the by-pass but since this was a Sunday, I had no problems at the bridge and arrived at the Coach House at ButtlerstownCastle just before 8PM.  It is a little out of town, but well worth the extra effort.

Des warned me that it might be difficult to find a place to eat as many restaurants close on Sunday evening.  I stopped at a ‘retro diner’, a throwback to the American Diners of the 50’s and 60′, complete with the individual jukebox on each table (I did not test to see if they worked) and the soda fountain.  Food was not great, but it was open.  After that, I went into Waterford just to orient myself and look around.  To say that the town was quite at 9 PM is an understatement!

I hardly ran into anybody while walking around in the center of the town…

After a good night sleep, I decided to explore the region around Kilkenny, for no other reason than that is the name of my favourite Irish Beer.

By looking at the guide, I decided to first stop at the Priory of Kells.  There seem to be important ruins like this one a little everywhere in Ireland, a constant reminder of both the religious spirit that has symbolised the country, and the violent history that it experienced in the Middle Ages.  This particular priory was fortified with a very strong wall and moat – the wall is still intact in many places.

The priory and the attached abbey were first established in the 12th century but most buildings date from the 14th and 15th centuries.  It was fought over several times, burned down and destroyed and finally abandoned in the 16th century.  There was no one there while I was visiting and I was free to go where I wanted amongst the ruins – very unusual to still be able to do this anywhere in the world…

Just upstream from the priory, a water mill was established in the 19th century – typical early industrial design but for it to be still standing intact, it must have still been in use well into the 20th century.  I could not go inside, but from the outside, I could see the remains of the belt system that must have driven the machinery – not sure what machinery that was.

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